Currently based in Minneapolis, Minn. He holds a Bachelor of Arts in creative writing from the University of Montana. The oil pump on a Stihl chain saw operates the automatic chain lubrication. This pump draws oil from the tank and pushes it up into the bar, where it lubricates the spinning chain.
The oil pump can get damaged in many ways or can get clogged from impurities in the oil. Repairing the oil pump requires removing and disassembling it, which, if you are unfamiliar with small engines, is better left to a qualified mechanic.
Take off the bar and chain cover. Unscrew the bar nut with the wrench. Lift the cover free and slide the bar and chain off its seat on the engine. Take off the top cylinder cover using the screwdriver to pop open the clips. Unfasten the rubber boot that's attached to the spark plug. Unscrew the spark plug with the socket wrench and socket. Take the spark plug out and insert the piston block tool in its place. Pull out on the starter rope until the piston hits the stop tool. Drive off the retaining ring on the crankshaft stub using the tip of the screwdriver.
Slide off the clutch's dust plate, the clutch drum, sprocket and needle cage. Lift the metal washer, if present, off the top of the clutch. Bend the clutch springs free using the metal clutch hook. Pull each spring free and separate the clutch shoes from the clutch carrier. Remove the clutch carrier. Lift the end of the drive spring up and pull out the drive spring and attached worm drive. Push the oil pump's bar hose off the pump housing with the flat tip of the screwdriver.
Unscrew the two oil pump mounting screws. Lift the bottom of the pump forward a little and slowly lift the rear of the pump off the engine housing. Take the elbow connector off the engine housing with the pump.Forums New posts Search forums. What's new New posts New media New media comments Latest activity. Media New media New comments Search media. Log in Register. Search titles only.
How do you replace the oil line on a stihl? Thread starter Tree94 Start date Feb 18, Feb 18, Tree94 ArboristSite Operative. Joined Dec 7, Messages Location Southwest. Trying to figure out why my stihl isn't oiling. For 1, its frustrating as hell trying to get to it through the small hole where you put the oil in.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Philip Wheelock Finis Origine Pendet. The oil hose is one piece, and is replaced by removing the oil pump and pulling it out from the clutch side.
I took the oil pump off and inspected it, and the worm gear. All looked good. I reassembled it all and tried to run the saw again. Still not oiling. Then I figured I'd try to inspect the hose but I could not for the life of me figure out how to take it off. But what you said makes perfect sense now.
That I should be able to pull the hose out from the clutch side. I'm going to give that a go when I get home. So I should be able to just pull the oil hose out from the clutch side, correct? Its not screwed in or nothing?
How to Repair the Oil Pump on a Stihl 180
It should just be a nice snug fit and I can just yank it out? Tree94 said:. Joined Oct 14, Messages Location Virginia. Why are you replacing the line? Is it cracked? If it is clogged, did you try blowing some air through it? Try cleaning it out? I tore it.
I attempted to inspect the oil filter for a clog but I could not figure out how to grab it through the oil hole.Hey do you know any tricks to replacing the fuel line in the I'm having a hard time getting the grommet through the tank hosing? Post a Comment. Tuesday, July 26, Replacing the chain oil pump on a Stihl While running my chainsaw, I noticed the chain was getting tight on the bar, and not operating free.
As I examined it closer, I found the bar was not being oiled. It turned out that my oil pump had stopped working. Here's how to replace it. Get out your tools.
The comes with a rudimentary tool kit that has almost everything you will need. The next four steps are pretty routine. If you have never removed these parts, this guide is not for you. Remove the cover from bar, and remove the bar and chain. Remove the air intake cover from the back of the saw quarter turn on the locking knob and pull up. Disconnect the spark-plug wire pull straight from plug. Remove the flat head screw that holds the metal chain guide plate on, and remove the plate too.
Remove the two torx screws holding the plastic cover around the flywheel, and lift the cover off. Pry the lower cover up from near the bottom -- carefully. It has a post on it that presses into a hole, so it you pry off to the side, you risk breaking this post.
Labels: repair. Newer Post Older Post Home. Subscribe to: Post Comments Atom.The cutting chain and guide bar oiler system on a Stihl chain saw operate with an oil pump that pumps oil from the oil tank to the cutting chain and guide bar, properly lubricating the cutting chain and guide bar as you operate the chain saw. The chain saw oil line is made from rubber, which drys and cracks due to exposure to oil, fuel and the chain saw engine's heat. Maintaining the oiling system is vital to keep the chain saw cutting system operating properly.
The oil line should be replaced when it is damaged. Flip the engine stop switch to disable the Stihl chain saw's engine. Drain all oil from the chain saw's oil tank.
Turn the chain saw onto its left side -- as viewed from the operator's position. Unscrew the two retaining screws from the front handle's bottom with a T star-head screwdriver. Turn the chain saw upright. Pry the annular buffer plugs from the right side of the front handle with a small, flat-head screwdriver. Unscrew the four retaining screws from the right side of the front handle with the star-head screwdriver.
Push the chain saw's front handle down, pull it backward toward the rear throttle handle and remove the front handle from the chain saw.Stihl 017& 018 repair to bar oiling system, showing oil pump feed and oil tank removal.
Pull the chain saw kickback guard backward, releasing the chain brake. Unscrew the two sprocket-cover retaining nuts with a socket wrench.
Slide the sprocket cover from the right side of the engine. Put on a pair of heavy-duty leather work gloves, and remove the cutting chain from around the guide bar and cutting chain sprocket.
Slide the guide bar from the guide bar mounting studs. Pry the chain sprocket retaining C-clip from the engine crankshaft's end by using the small, flat-head screwdriver. Slide the flat washer from the engine crankshaft, followed by the chain sprocket and clutch drum.
With their removal, you gain access to the engine clutch. Turn the air filter housing cover's twist-lock knob one-quarter turn counterclockwise. Pull the cover free from the air filter housing.
Brush all lose dirt and other debris from the prefilter with a disposable paintbrush to prevent the debris from entering the air filter housing. Pull the prefilter from the top of the air filter housing by hand. With the air filter housing cover and prefilter removed, you have access to the spark plug wire and spark plug. Pull the spark plug rubber boot from the spark plug by hand. Unscrew the spark plug from the engine cylinder with a spark plug socket and ratchet wrench.
Screw a piston stop tool into the engine cylinder with a wrench. The piston stop tool will prevent the engine piston from rotating when you remove the engine clutch.Forums New posts Search forums. What's new New posts New media New media comments Latest activity. Media New media New comments Search media. Log in Register. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. New posts.
BlueLude ArboristSite Member. I just did a av oil line over the weekend here. Bar and chain wasn't getting enough oil. Oiler was turned to max. Had a leak where the pump mates up to the feed hose that lays inside the bar lube reservoir. I used a heat gun on it And I doubt I could have done without it. Cut the hose length at 3 inches. Heat up one end and get the hose onto the pump before installing pump.
Install anti kink spring into hose From there it's just a little finessing and I did use heat at this point also to help. Get the hose all situated and bolt up oiler and install brass outlet heat needed again. Yeap what he said. Just as heat is required, too much heat will ruin the new line. Someone recommended soaking in boiling water to soften. Supposedly there was also a homelite tube that works but is not as stiff?
I have seen s running tygon and they seemed to oil ok. I've tried the regular black stihl fuel line but it wound up leaking.The chain and guide bar oiler on your Stihl chainsaw is an essential component of the saw. Without it, heat and friction would quickly destroy both the bar and chain. It's simple to check whether or not the oiler works properly: Hold the chainsaw over a flat surface, such as a tree stump, engage the throttle and look for oil drops coming from the spinning chain.
The absence of these drops may mean that the oil port is blocked. Clearing a blocked oil port isn't difficult. The oil pump may be malfunctioning, though, and that requires some disassembling the engine. Disconnect the Stihl chainsaw's spark plug boot from the spark plug to begin the process of cleaning the oil ports.
Remove the chainsaw's guide bar and chain shroud by unscrewing the two nuts that hold it in place, using a socket wrench or the multipurpose tool that came with the saw for the task. Remove the guide bar and chain, and take the chain off the bar. Wipe oil and sawdust from the bar, including from the groove in the bar's rim, by using a rag.
Clean the oil feed hole on the bar by poking gauge wire through it. Poke the wire into the oil outlet port on the body of the saw to remove sawdust and dirt that may block it. Look for the oil relief valve in the side of the engine housing, between the oil outlet port and the guide bar studs. Push against the valve with the gauge wire. A little oil should seep from the valve unless the valve is blocked or stuck. Pushing the valve once should free it, allowing oil to seep.
The valve is designed to open when the saw engine starts to allow oil to come out. Reassemble the guide bar and chain onto the chainsaw.
Reconnect the spark plug boot to the spark plug, and test the saw by operating it and checking for oil spray from the bar. If still no oil appears when you engage the throttle and you're sure oil is in the tank, then the worm drive on the oil pump may be worn and in need of replacement. Disconnect the spark plug boot from the spark plug, and pull the spark plug from its hole.
Remove the lug nuts holding the bar and chain shroud, using a socket wrench, and take off the shroud. Remove the bar and chain. Remove the e-clip holding the sprocket to the engine shaft, using needle-nose pliers.
Remove the washer and the chain sprocket.
Unscrew the clutch nut, which has reverse threads, by turning it clockwise with a socket wrench. Pull the clutch off the engine shaft. Lift the worm gear and drive arm off the engine shaft.The chain and bar on my Stihl MS chainsaw was dry as a bone. There was plenty of bar oil in the tank but none was being fed to the bar and chain. Just before I realized what was going on I was getting smoke while sawing down trees. Right then the chain locked solid on the bar.
I removed the bar and chain and cleaned out the holes and areas where the oil should be coming from. That didn't work - no oil output even with the chain and bar removed and the engine running. I had a brochure on hand with a special deal on the same chainsaw - but before rushing out to get a new one I decided to take a crack at fixing the saw myself. The method I used worked and the video and steps below show how I got the oil flowing again.
Stihl 034av oil pump outlet line replacement
Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. A wood screw came in handy to remove crud from gummed up holes gummed with sawdust and bar oil. The screw should be a little smaller in diameter than the hole. Gently turn the screw clockwise as you advance it into the hole. Pull the screw out slowly complete with crud.
Poking other tools and sticks into a critical hole such as the oil output port might cause further blocking. Even though I didn't get much oil splatter on the cardboard I went ahead and gave the saw a test by cutting down a bunch of small trees and branches.
I kept at this for at least a half hour without any apparent problems. Reply 8 months ago. Try running stihl bar oil it will work much better also there are no specialty tools required to remove that pump.
It simply sits under the clutch any repair shop with an educated tech should be able to handle that mm socket set and a t27 a flat had screw driver and a string is all that is needed oh and a spark plug socket and maybe needle nose pliers is all that is needed to remove the oil pump.
But better yet just take it to where ever you bought it because in order to sell stihl you must be a service center hence no big box stores have stihl.